By Margaret Malsam
The Fort, which is a 1906s replica of Bent’s Fort, may not be as old as many of Colorado’s earlier historic dining establishments, but it most likely wins the prize for making the most history in recent times. During the past 20 years, The Fort, which is located in southwest Denver, has elegantly served old and new foods from the Great West to many famous guests and dignitaries, including Russia’s Mikhail Gorbachev, the Prince of Jordan, country super star Waylon Jennings and chief of states from the richest industrialized countries of the world at the Summit of the Eight hosted by former President Bill Clinton.
The Fort
“Our most famous stars, however, are our loyal customers who come back every month and sometimes each week,” said Holly Arnold Kinney, proprietress and daughter of the late Sam Arnold who founded the historic restaurant in 1963.
Known for both its unique architecture and tantalizing selection of old and new foods from the Great West, this award-winning restaurant with nine dining rooms is one of the nation’s most recognized establishments and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Fort has been featured in national publications such as the New York Times, Sunset, Bon Appetit and Modern Maturity and featured on NBC’s Today Show.
“This two-story Pueblo revival building is exceptionally important at the state level of significance for its rendition of traditional adobe construction and an architectural form that not only reflects Colorado’s rich heritage but is built according to the original 19th century plans for the construction of Bent’s Fort,” said Linda McClelland, National Park Service historian.
History of The Fort
“It all began in 1961 when my mother wanted to build an adobe style home in the country outside of Denver, so my brother and I could grow up in the country with clean air, horseback riding and fishing,” Holly Kinney said.
Kinney said her father and mother were reading a book about Bent’s Fort, a famous Colorado fur trade fort built in 1833. Bent’s Fort was the first major fur trade fort in the High Plains region, and it served as a rendezvous site for mountain men such as Kit Carson. The fort was also a major freighting center on the Santa Fe Trail and played a pivotal role during the Mexican War in 1846
When they saw a drawing of Bent’s Fort, Holly’s mother turned to Sam and said, “Let’s build an adobe castle like this!” About this time, they discovered the beautiful red rock property that was for sale in Morrison, bought it in 1961 and hired a Santa Fe architect to design a replica of Bent’s Fort for them.
When the costs of construction exceeded the budget, the bank suggested the family put a business in their historic “fort” home. They redesigned the lower level for a restaurant and the upper level for living quarters. After purchasing furnishings that were hand carved by New Mexico artists from Taos in the 1800s style, The Fort restaurant opened for business in February 1963.
Foods of The Fort
Arnold’s pioneer spirit has been – and continues to be – the inspiration for The Fort’s menu which has always included buffalo, elk and quail, said Kinney, adding that The Fort sells more buffalo steaks than any other independently owned restaurant in the country.
Arnold, who was a well-known historian and cookbook author, researched the foods of the native Americans, the Mexican and Spanish traders and created a amazing “fusion” of foods for The Fort that most likely had been served at Bent’s Fort. He also pioneered in serving chipotle peppers, prickly pear margaritas, bison tongue, marrowbones, Rocky Mountain oysters and rattlesnake to his guests.
Several years ago my husband and I feasted on some of these house delicacies while enjoying the gracious hospitality of Arnold and his daughter, who told us the story of their amazing restaurant. For an appetizer, try their roasted bison marrowbones, which was known as “Prairie Butter” to the early pioneers. This delicacy was Julia Child’s favorite, according to Kinney.
In The Fort Cookbook, Arnold gave his recipe for buffalo burgers served in large sourdough buns with peeled, steamed green chilies and sliced onions. Then he tops them with Sam’s Secret Sauce: one cup mayonnaise mixed with ¾ cup Heinz chili sauce.
The restaurant specializes in serving hearty food from the frontier days, but with a unique twist. The Fort’s popular Gonzales steak accented with Mexican chilies is a good example. It is named after a gifted Taos craftsman with that last name. This recipe was printed in The Fort Cookbook and also Historic Recipes from Colorado.
