Culinary Capers: Denver’s Brown Palace Hotel, one of Colorado’s historic jewels

By Margaret Malsam

Some of Colorado’s best cuisine can be enjoyed in historic hotels and bed ‘n breakfasts. Recipes from Historic Colorado by Linda and Steve Bauer gives fascinating history and recipes from Colorado’s oldest dining establishments. In reviewing this unique book, Denver’s Mayor John Hickenlooper says “ it captures the innovative culinary style of the New West—one bite at a time.”

For this article series, I am selecting a few of more than 40 historic restaurants highlighted in this book. I’m starting with the Denver, Boulder and Colorado Springs areas (gateway cities to Black Hawk, Central City and Cripple Creek) and continuing to other parts of Colorado. Hopefully you will sometime visit and/or dine at some of these historic jewels. If not, you will be able to prepare some of their recipes at home.

Brown Palace Hotel

Denver, the “Queen City of the Plains,” was only 34 years old when Henry Brown opened the doors of the Brown Palace Hotel in August 1892. Noted architect Frank Edbrooke designed this pretentious hotel in the popular Italian Renaissance style on a triangular lot at 17^th and Broadway at a cost of $1.6 million, a tidy sum then. Its triangular shape allows sunlight to illuminate each room so you’ll never suffer from sun deprivation while staying at the Brown Palace. In the past, guests could choose rooms with morning or afternoon sun.

Emperors, kings and U.S. presidents, including “Teddy” Roosevelt and Dwight Eisenhower have made this palace-like hotel their home away from home. Queens and goddesses of stage and screen have primped in these rooms.

With four restaurants and traditional afternoon tea, the hotel provides many culinary adventures for its guests with its award-winning cuisine. The dinner menu features signature items such as the Rack of Colorado Lamb and Filet of King Canyon Bison “Rossini,” as well as creative, contemporary dishes using fresh local produce from Colorado.

Palace Arms has not served lunch since 2003, but now it’s offering upscale lunches on weekdays. Brown Palace’s innovative Executive Sous Chef Thanawat Bates prepares a gourmet lunch entrée with a salmon filet, applewood smoked bacon, arugula and asparagus salad, stewed heirloom tomatoes and toasted breadcrumbs. Bates put his culinary twist on chicken alfredo by making organic chicken meatball pasta. The Palace Arms lunch burger isn’t meant for ketchup and mustard. It’s made with Kobe beef, foie gras, caramelized onions and truffle cheese served with balsamic fries.

Antiques dating from 1670 decorate the walls and include dueling pistols and other artifacts believed to have belonged to Napoleon. Replicas of revolutionary battle flags and flags prominent during the exploration of the American continent hang inside Palace Arms.

The Churchill Bar opened in 1996 in space once occupied by Henry Brown’s office. This sophisticated retreat off the atrium lobby offers premium spirits and rare cigars. It features a library-like atmosphere with bookshelves, a plasma screen TV, and red leather wing back chairs and couches. The bar also serves lunch and appetizers.

Opened in 1934 after prohibition was repealed, Ship Tavern is the hotel’s oldest restaurant. Its décor includes ship models, a complete mast, crow’s nest, ship’s clock and Jamaican rum barrels. Award-winning prime rib, Rocky Mountain trout, and Kobe beef and buffalo burgers complement the Ship Tavern’s vast selection of beers, microbrews and wines. Lively piano entertainment fills the room each Wednesday through Saturday evening.         

Ellyngton’s, the hotel’s main dining room, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Its Sunday Champagne Brunch menu features carved-to-order items, enormous salads, seafood presentation, decadent desserts and a chocolate fountain. Its windows overlooks Denver’s bustling financial district, making Ellyngton’s a popular choice for “power meals.”

Ellyngton’s is the sixth name for this restaurant. Little is known about the first restaurant, the Renaissance Room. The second, the Casanova Room, was created to match the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. When the silk-draped room was destroyed by fire in 1935, the room was redecorated in art deco style. In 1941, it became the Emerald Room and a hub for Denver society. In 1958, it was decorated in Italian style and named the San Marco Room. Couples danced to big band music here.

High tea at the Brown has been cherished by guests for more than a century. Today, afternoon tea is served daily in engraved silver teapots in the beautiful atrium lobby accompanied by the soothing sounds of a harpist or pianist. Royal Daulton china graces each table. The hotel’s culinary staff artfully prepares scones, tea pastries and tea sandwiches each day. Premium tea is properly steeped before carried with Devonshire cream to the table by experienced servers schooled in the fine art of English tea service. Wines, champagnes, sherries and ports are also available.

While pampered with organic teas and dried fruits in the hotel’s new $3 million spa, guests can order healthy, organic specialties, such as whole wheat chicken souvlaki, wild salmon with lemongrass sauce, and artisan penne pasta.