By Margaret Malsam
Old Gilpin Hotel in Black Hawk
The old mining towns of Central City, Black Hawk and Cripple Creek are no longer “short stops” in the mountains, but destinations. Now visitors can spend a few hours, a day or stay overnight in any of these three mountain towns, which today boast beautiful casinos, hotels with amenities, and fine restaurants.
Central City
Before gambling was legalized and casinos opened October 1991, my husband and I often took our visiting flatland friends and relatives for a scenic mountain ride and stopped briefly for a drink in a bar in Central City. The Glided Garter, with the cowboy guy standing in front to beckon us in was one of our favorites.
On rare occasions, we attended an opera at Central City’s Opera House, but that was about the only other reason to drive up to the town. In those days, the seats were so small that our long legs were cramped during the performance. Now the Opera House has new, more comfortable seating.
Thanks to grants from gaming revenues earmarked for Colorado historic preservation, visitors to the casinos are only steps away from famous restored historical sites in Central City, such as the famous Opera House (the oldest operating opera house in the U.S.), the Thomas House and the Gilpin County Historical Museum (once the first permanent schoolhouse west of the Mississippi). Some of the museum’s most unusual items are a pool table that converts into a church pew and a gasoline-burning iron used to press clothes.
Black Forest Inn, Black Hawk
A little-known historical jewel of Central City is the 1866 Thomas House at 209 Eureka Street. Mr. and Mrs. Thomas moved into the house in 1894, and when the couple moved to Denver in 1917, they left everything behind, hoping to return someday. When the Gilpin County Historical Society received this house, they found a rich time capsule of fascinating early 1900s calendars, clocks, toys, quilts, family photos, advertising art, magazines, and even undergarments.
Black Hawk
Before gambling started, sometimes we stopped to dine on great German food at the Black Forest Inn in Black Hawk, but usually we just passed through this crumbling mountain town of yesteryear. Dining at the Black Forest Inn was about the only reason to stop in Black Hawk then. Now this restaurant has moved to Nederland. Twenty years later this mountain town is blossoming with big casinos, fine restaurants and luxurious hotels. We especially like the two-for-one breakfasts and lunches for seniors on Mondays and Tuesdays at The Lodge’s Seasons Buffet.
On our trips through the mountains in the late ‘80s, we saw the once-elegant Gilpin Hotel falling slowly into ruin.
“Someone ought to restore that old hotel,” I told my husband. “Let’s stop and take a picture of it.”
It wasn’t until 1992, however, that the burned-out building was restored and opened with a casino and restaurant. In 2003, it was expanded and remodeled. Now we enjoy dining with our guests in their large second floor restaurant, which is named Lucile Malone’s. Lucille, better known as Lucy, was an early-day schoolteacher who lived in the Gilpin Hotel’s second floor. Employees of the Gilpin Casino report that this dead lady has made her ghostly presence felt on many occasions.
The oldest school building in Colorado is actually located in Black Hawk, and opened in May 1870.
Cripple Creek
When we were staying at a hotel in Colorado Springs before gambling began, we loved to go to the melodrama theater in the old Imperial Hotel in Cripple Creek. I still have the musical tape of Danny Griffith, the long-time piano player at the theater.
Hospitality House in Cripple Creek. Photos by George Malsam
It was closed in March 2010. This summer the historic Imperial Hotel with its Gold Bar Theater and restaurant opened again after a restoration by its new owners, Gary and Win Ledford. Adjoining the hotel is Jim’s Casino.
The Ledfords are retired builders who previously completed the renovation of the big brick Cripple Creek High School into Carr Manor Historic Inn, a boutique hotel and bed ‘n breakfast. The Imperial Hotel now has eight rooms available for guests and will soon have 16 rooms completed. All rooms have renovated private bathrooms and many will become mini-suites, with a living room and roll out couch, allowing for children to stay.
“The plan is to keep as much of the historic ambience as possible while introducing more energy efficient lighting and heating elements,” Gary Ledford said.
The Hospitality House, a two-story, red brick building on the north edge of Cripple Creek is now restored and open to guests. This former Teller County Hospital, which was constructed in 1901 during the height of the gold rush, once bore the names like maternity, recovery, quarantine, emergency on large wooden doors of each room. Today the historic building has 17 guest rooms with Victorian décor. Its RV campground has pull-through sites with full hook-ups, tenting area, bathhouse, laundry and game areas.
These three old mining towns were fading away before gambling started. Many buildings, like the Gilpin Hotel, were in ruin. Twenty years later these towns continue to grow and attract more visitors each year.
