Morning in the Market Place, 1878 by Thomas Allen, Jr. Courtesy of the Witte Museum, San Antonio, Texas
By Anna Lee Ames Fohlich
The cover of the book containing this quote is decorated with Thomas Allen’s painting, Morning in the Market Place, from 1878 which is owned by the Witte Museum in San Antonio, Texas.
In 1882, Thomas Allen’s entry at the Paris salon was “Evening in the Market Place.” The location of this painting is a mystery that those who love his work would love to solve. At one time it belonged to a J.A. Newton from Massachusetts who owned property in Mexico. Hopefully the owners appreciate what they have and enjoy it.
“Imagine a large square at that time badly lighted as to municipal illumination, but ablaze with small camp fires and flaming lamps swinging above rows of improvised and shaky tables. All night long one might be served here with viands hot from the Mexican cuisine – chili con carne, tamales, enchiladas, chili verde, frijoles and the leather-like tortillas. The more fastidious American might enjoy delicately fried eggs and chicken with a cup of fair coffee, followed, perchance, by a corn-shuck ‘cigarro,’ rolled by the hand of the dark-eyed ‘muchacha’ in charge.”
- William Corner, San Antonio de Bexar, 1890, from The History of San Antonio’s Market Square, by Mary Ann Noona Guerra
Study for central figure, oil on board, private collection.
Then there is another mystery. Allen had photographs made of many of his paintings. There is one titled in his handwriting, Early Morning in the Market Place. One has to look at it with a magnifying glass to see the tiny differences between the photograph and the painting in the Witte Museum. For instance, the central figure in white in the photograph has shorter hair than the one in the Witte’s painting. The story is that Allen sold a larger version of the painting to a resident of Worchester, Mass. He liked it so much that he painted a smaller version. He must have had the original to paint from because they are so close.
Details
- In 1878, the Market Place was in Military Plaza, Plaza de Armas. It was known for its chili stands and the young Mexican women who ran them and were known as “The Chili Queens.” The stands and the market were later moved a few blocks away. The Market Plaza is now a draw for tourists and locals.
Study of the marketplace in military square, 1878, oil on canvas, private collection.
- The central building with a dome and two towers is San Fernando Cathedral. The view of it in this painting is from the back.
- The central figure in white has been controversial in recent years because of the fact the he is smoking, perhaps one of those corn-shuck “cigarros.” The placement of other figures creates interesting vignettes.
Study of livestock for several of Thomas Allen’s San Antonio paintings, oil on canvas, private collection.
I picture Thomas Allen and his friends, perhaps the afore mentioned J.A. Newton, and friend and fellow Texas artist Robert J. Onderdonk, engaged in conversation in the dim light of the Market Place, laughing and smoking their
cigarros.
